BMW R 12 G/S Off-Road Test: More Than Just Retro?

The BMW R 12 G/S doesn't just show up as a prettily dressed-up retro enduro. It quite deliberately wants to tie into the great GS history while also making a credible case that it can do more than just look good. That's exactly what makes it exciting. Right from the first few metres it's clear that this bike plays heavily on nostalgia, but isn't meant just for the ice cream parlour. The test takes place in Spain, where legal gravel and dirt passages are considerably easier to find than at home. That's precisely the kind of environment needed to sensibly classify a bike like this.

The approach in this test is deliberately split in two. On one side stands the everyday rider, who knows his own limits, takes the machine's weight seriously, and doesn't simply switch off his brain when looking at the value and the terrain. On the other side, with Bernd Hiemer, stands a two-time Supermoto World Champion, who recognises far more quickly what the bike is really capable of in terms of handling, and who also dares to push the premium scrambler to its limits.

At the heart of the BMW R 12 G/S works the well-known air-/oil-cooled boxer with 1170cc, 109 hp and 115 Nm of torque. This engine is one of the bike's great charm factors. Despite modern electronics with ride-by-wire, cruise control and lean-angle-dependent rider aids, it hasn't lost its character. That's exactly one of this machine's appeals. On starting it up, that typical boxer feeling is instantly there, including the familiar jolt and that earthy mechanical aura that modern engines often only retain traces of. Especially compared to the more recent, more dynamic boxer generations, the engine in the R 12 G/S feels pleasantly classic and distinctive.

Added to this is a steel tube-frame chassis, combined with long suspension travel and fully adjustable suspension components. Up front works an upside-down fork with 210mm of travel, at the rear a Marzocchi shock with 200mm. The tank holds 15.5 litres, the wet weight is 229 kilograms, and it's driven by shaft as is typical for BMW. Things become off-road relevant above all with the Enduro Pro Package. Then you get handguards, a massive engine guard, off-road-capable footpegs, a handlebar riser and Michelin Anakee Wild tyres. But particularly important is the changed rear wheel size. Up front it stays at 90/90-21, at the rear there's now 18 inches instead of 17. That significantly expands the choice of serious knobby tyres and shows that the R 12 doesn't carry the off-road theme in its name purely out of tradition.

The biggest surprise on light to moderate terrain is the ergonomics. Because although the BMW R 12 G/S is heavily anchored in the retro theme, it feels remarkably coherent when standing. At a standstill it's nothing that instantly inspires confidence in smaller riders, due to the 860mm seat height, weight and dimensions. At 1.85 metres tall it's manageable, but even then there are moments on uneven ground where you feel that this machine is no toy. The boxer does help with the centre of gravity, but even so, little is needed and you get this uneasy feeling that it could tip over quickly. So at a standstill, the R 12 G/S demands respect.

But as soon as it's rolling and you switch into standing mode, the picture changes markedly. Anyone standing cleanly on the balls of their feet on the pegs finds a natural position immediately. The knees sit in the right spot to clamp the bike if needed, while still leaving surprisingly much freedom of movement fore and aft. The distance between handlebar and footpegs also fits very well for an active stance. On top of that there's a wide steering lock, which helps enormously especially in slow hairpins or playful manoeuvres on loose ground. The tank is shaped so that the outer knee can be guided nicely outward, while the hip stays flexible under pressure to steer the machine. Exactly these kinds of details often matter more off-road than raw performance figures. And here the BMW R 12 G/S surprisingly gets a lot right.

As convincingly as the ergonomics work, the R 12 G/S also makes it clear that it's no bike for complete beginners. That's partly down to the weight, partly to the way it delivers power. The boxer pulls with solid grunt and demands a sensitive throttle hand on loose ground. You notice this not just on hard trails but already on simple gravel roads. Once you feel comfortable and let the good standing feel motivate you a bit, it takes very little twist of the throttle for the rear end to step out. The torque is instantly there, but grip on loose ground is limited, which makes it hard to hit the point between a controlled drift or the rear end going on an unwanted overtaking course.

That's exactly why, as a layperson, I stay in Enduro mode almost the whole time rather than Enduro Pro mode. Not because the bike couldn't handle more, but because the risk of cold-bending the beautiful test bike with a careless throttle blip seems too great. Added to that, the tyres are still filled to road pressure, which shrinks the margin further. The clutch also contributes to the bike not feeling quite as accessible as one might wish. It's relatively heavy, and anyone wanting to work with it a lot in technical terrain quickly feels it in the forearms. All together this results in a bike that can be ridden wonderfully with feel and experience, but not casually. The BMW R 12 G/S is accessible enough to be fun, but powerful enough to demand experience.

A genuine criticism off-road is the brake tuning, especially at the rear. Up front the system is still well controllable, even though the brake pressure rises quite quickly after the initially soft pressure point. At the rear things are noticeably sharper. There the brake feels very bitey and builds its effect almost binarily. It seems to take barely any pedal travel before the rear wheel locks up. Especially off-road, where you want to feel your way carefully towards the traction limit, this costs confidence. I even left the adjustable enduro foot brake lever in the road configuration, because that leaves a bit more room for movement at the foot and makes the brake easier to modulate. That softens the issue slightly but doesn't solve the underlying problem. If BMW gave the rear pressure build-up more progression, the bike would be easier and more relaxed to control on loose ground.

The impression of the chassis is noticeably more positive. Admittedly, at the pace of the layperson's test it's never really pushed to the limit, but already on gravel, small bumps and rougher stretches it becomes clear that the long suspension travel isn't just for show. The stock tuning feels rather sporty without becoming uncomfortable. The R 12 G/S filters out flat gravel stretches cleanly, while at the same time giving the impression that significant reserves remain. BMW noticeably wanted to build not just a softly bouncing retro bike here, but a machine that still works cleanly when things get rougher.

Things get exciting once the professional assessment comes into play. Bernd Hiemer rides the first metres on the R 12 G/S with the 18-inch rear wheel off-road and very quickly confirms that the bike can do significantly more than might be assumed at first glance. He speaks of fast gravel, potholes, water crossings and also somewhat more technical sections. His impression is clearly positive. Especially at slow speeds he feels comfortable with big boxers, because the bike gives him a lot of riding feel. That's an interesting point, because he doesn't contradict the layperson's impression but rather adds the perspective of a very experienced rider to it: whoever knows what they're doing can definitely get something out of this concept off-road.

He also classifies the electronic aids in typically confident BMW fashion. The Enduro Pro mode works well for him, and the ABS only intervenes intrusively at the front in a few situations. That's important because experienced off-road riders in particular tend to be especially critical here. Added to that is the option to deactivate traction control. Then more wheelspin becomes possible, drifting becomes more fun, and the bike opens up for a noticeably more active riding style. At the same time, Hiemer also confirms the criticism of the rear brake. It's very bitey and quickly leads to over-braking at first. Once you adjust to it you can manage, but it remains a noticeable trait. His overall impression, however, is clear: the bike is fun, the chassis fits, and on a longer stretch he'd like to find out more precisely what's possible.

As convincing as the BMW R 12 G/S is in many details, another factor pulls the range of use back together sharply in practice: the price and the risk that comes with it. In Germany you have to put down at least €16,990, in Austria at least €19,590. The test bike, thanks to the many necessary accessory packages, comes to €22,095 in Austria. That's exactly where the inner conflict of this bike begins. Because on one hand it conveys genuine off-road appetite, on the other hand it's noticeably exposed in many places. The handguards are made of plastic, the header pipe sits exposed, the cylinder heads are immediately in the danger zone in a tip-over, and even the beautifully designed steel tank is nothing you'd want to risk carelessly on rocky terrain. A tip-over is therefore not just annoying, but potentially really expensive.

Unfortunately, this also applies to running costs. According to BMW, the R 12 G/S is due for service every 10,000 km, where the valves are also checked. Every 20,000 km the oil in the shaft drive's bevel gear is changed, and every 40,000 km the drive shaft itself. In total, that's an increased maintenance effort compared to some competitor models, as can be seen here in the comparison of the BMW R 12 G/S with the Triumph Scrambler 1200 XE.

This leads directly to the question of who exactly the BMW R 12 G/S is particularly attractive for. First there are the classic R80GS nostalgics, who see a modern reinterpretation of the old idea in this machine. Then the retro fans who simply can't get on with modern, angular adventure bikes but still want to hit gravel now and then. And finally those adventure tourers who've had enough of the overloaded adventure market with massive fronts, lots of plastic and ever more extreme looks. Anyone who can live with less wind protection, but is looking for classic shapes, long suspension travel, a powerful engine and an upright riding position, finds a very distinctive offering here. That's exactly where the R 12 G/S's strength lies: it occupies a niche that's emotionally charged, but doesn't stay empty in terms of riding substance.