11 Days in Scotland - Rugged Beauty Experienced in the Saddle

We touch down in Edinburgh, passports in hand, ETA approved. The airport is located west of the city—well-connected, but our goal is clear: head to the Triumph dealer on Peffermill Road. The handover is smooth and professional. Our luggage is packed motorcycle-friendly, saving us some hassle. Our rides: Triumph Tiger Sport 800 and Triumph Tiger 900 GT Pro, both freshly serviced and fully loaded, ready for the Highlands. The first leg is intentionally short. Just about 40 kilometers to the hotel in Dunfermline. Instead of city stress, we tackle roundabouts and bypasses—perfect practice for riding on the left. The Tigers purr towards our only stop at the three bridges over the Firth of Forth—crossing them in sunshine, our journey begins. Spontaneously, after checking into our rooms, we decide on a detour to St. Andrews, the famous university town, for a relaxed dinner.

We leave Dunfermline early, and the roads become more rural. Taking the A823 to Crieff, then on to Aberfeldy. Dewar’s World of Whisky is right along the route—a worthwhile stop if time permits, but we decide to press on due to the changing weather conditions. After Aberfeldy, the B846 and B8019 towards Pitlochry get nicely twisty. The spectacular Queen’s View offers an impressive sight over Loch Tummel—a must-stop we can't pass up. Beyond Pitlochry, we weave further on small roads through the rolling landscape towards Braemar. The B950 and A93 deliver what Scotland promises: undulating tarmac ribbons, tight village passages, dense hedgerows, but also expansive views of the Highlands.

Our destination is Dinnet—a quiet spot, an ideal starting point for the next day. The route takes us over remote A and B roads—twisty, sometimes rough, but always rewarding. The Tiger models, which I naturally compare on this occasion, handle smoothly, with the suspension soaking up bumps effortlessly. The 900 GT Pro offers a bit more comfort, allowing for electronic adjustment of the rear shock, making it quick to adapt to changing loads or riding styles on the go. We savor dinner at the Boat Inn in Aboyne, Dinnet’s neighboring town. Accompanied by local brewery beer, chicken and fish are served. The craft beer craze has definitely reached northern Scotland.

Today, we leave our luggage at the hotel and head out on the Tiger 900 GT Pro, just the two of us. Our loop takes us past Kildrummy Castle and through the classic Speyside distilleries. Glenfiddich, Glenlivet, Glenfarclas, Glen Grant—if you're a whisky fan, this is your paradise. We visit the more intimate Tomintoul Distillery, and of course, a tasting is a must. Even as the rider, I get to have a sip, and I take the samples home in specially provided vials as souvenirs.

The Speyside Cooperage is also impressive: barrels crafted as true works of art. The route combines flowing country roads with narrow sections and passing places. The considerate nature of other road users is evident here: campers and cars—whether driven by locals or tourists—make way for motorcyclists and wave us through with a smile. Even though the smaller roads are marked by potholes and variable asphalt quality, we enjoy a classic Highland day that satisfies both riding enthusiasts and culture buffs alike.

We set off past the solitary and spectacularly positioned Corgarff Castle, then through the ski area before Tomintoul to Grantown-on-Spey. We skip the visit to the Glenlivet Distillery, opting instead for a detour towards Loch Ness. The south side of the lake—B862 and B852—is narrow, twisty, and much less trafficked than the touristy northern side. The lake itself? More myth than must-see. Skipping "Nessie" saves time.

Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, offers little of interest, so we pass through without stopping and head directly over the Kessock Bridge to the north. With time on our side and the weather unusually favorable, we decide to leave the monotonous A9 at the first opportunity and take the scenic route to Cromarty. There, we ferry across the Moray Firth and it's only a few kilometers to the beautiful Kincraig Castle Hotel, a former castle and grand estate. The Tigers are parked securely, leaving us time for an evening stroll. Time to reflect on the day spent in the saddle of the Tiger Sport 800.

It proves to be a road-oriented touring beast: upright seating, appealing ergonomics even for taller riders and with a pillion. Its triple engine delivers smooth throttle response but also packs a punch when needed. The engine is happiest between 3,000 and 6,000 RPM—confident, yet never frantic, perfect for touring. The braking system is every bit as good as the 900 GT Pro's, offering precise modulation with a clear bite point. The day ends with a view from the room over the Cromarty Firth.

The stage leads through Tain and Glenmorangie. If you skip the distillery tour like we did, you can take a detour via Bonar Bridge for guaranteed riding fun. The A9 becomes more exciting past Helmsdale: an old coastal road, rugged asphalt, steep cliffs, and stunning views. Dunrubin Castle is well worth a thorough visit; for those interested, there's a bird of prey show twice daily, included in the £15.50 entry fee, or the Earl of Sutherland's quirky hunting museum. We spent nearly four hours there before heading further north.

John o’Groats is a must-stop, albeit touristy, but the sign (being the northeasternmost point of mainland Scotland) is a photo-op necessity. Dunnet Head, on the other hand, delivers a true North Cape feeling: lighthouse, wind, cliffs, and views of Orkney. The hotel in Castletown is basic, but adequate for today, and we drift off into dreamland, exhausted.

Fueling up in Thurso is a must—after that, it's solitude. The A836 takes us to Durness, past bays and fjords, through heath and moorland. The turn-off to the B869 via Drumbeg is only recommended in good weather, which we unfortunately had to skip. Wind gusts up to 100 km/h and heavy rainfall make this stage a real challenge. Yet, even the direct route is breathtakingly scenic, narrow, twisty, and not for beginners. The minute-to-minute changes between sun and rain paint beautiful arcs in the sky. The Schuberth Concept, which we have on a rigorous test, handles all the weather antics well.

Exhausted, we reach Ullapool via the A835, which cuts through the former glacial area, at a cool 6 degrees Celsius. The Royal Hotel is situated right on the water—we settle into a corner room with a stunning view over Loch Broom. Sailboats rock in the wind, as a hot shower revives our spirits. In the quaint Ullapool, there's plenty to experience, as this is where the ferries head out to the Outer Hebrides.

The seventh day is planned as a rest day. Given the modest weather, we take a short trip to Corrieshalloch Gorge. A brief walk rewards us with views of the waterfalls, accessible since Victorian times. For lunch, we enjoy fresh seafood at the Seafood Shack. In the afternoon, we indulge in a delightful Cortado at Kult Café, visit the Highland Stoneware Pottery, and end the day with live music at the Arch Inn. The motorcycles stay parked as we dive into the local pub scene, where young and old gather—this too is part of a successful journey.

Before setting off, I host parts of the video on the Tiger 900 GT Pro. Then we follow the A832 through Gairloch and Kinlochewe, traversing the Glen of Torridon. Those like us who choose the Applecross Loop will encounter the "Pass of the Cattle"—one of Scotland's most challenging roads. Tight hairpins, single-track sections, steep ramps—only recommended in good weather and with riding experience. Later, we reach our hotel in Sleat, on the southern part of the Isle of Skye, via the A87 and Skye Bridge. In the afternoon, those inclined can take a spin towards Portree. A day rich with impressions—riding, scenic, and atmospheric.

Today we explore the Isle of Skye. Our grand loop takes us through Uig, Flodigarry, and back to Portree. Especially off the tourist trails in the north, the island reveals its rugged, untouched character. The pavement isn't always great, but the views make up for it. We deliberately skip Talisker—the variety in the Speyside distilleries was more enticing.

Instead, we stop at a truly traditional wool processing shop. You’d think Scotland would be full of such places, given there are far more sheep than people here. But establishments like the Shilasdair Yarn & Natural Dye Shop, where you can buy wool sourced and processed in Scotland, are indeed rare. At the end of the day, we roll back to the Toravaig House Hotel, where we've spent our two nights on Skye. Before departing the next day, we get to enjoy the fantastic Egg Royal (with locally smoked) for breakfast once more. It's clear that the travel planners at Feelgood Reisen are true gourmets.

Early in the morning, we head to the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig. The crossing takes about 30 minutes, giving us time for a photo shoot for the Vanucci Textile Clothing test in the light rain. We then follow the A830, one of Scotland's best motorcycle routes, which we unfortunately ride mostly in the rain. Traffic comes to a halt at one point, indicating that we've reached perhaps the most famous viaduct in Britain. Known from the Harry Potter film series, the Glenfinnan Viaduct spans a distance of 380 meters.

We continue inland, along the picturesque shores of Loch Lomond, heading into the Glasgow area. We take the most direct route because another highlight is on today's agenda: the Highland Games in Helensburgh. The Highland Games are not a sports event in the traditional sense—they are a slice of living Scottish culture. Where cabers are tossed, heavy stones lifted, and hammers thrown, it's not about medals but about pride, tradition, and community. The sound of bagpipes, men in kilts, the scent of whisky and grilled meat—all are part of the experience. Participating or watching immerses you in a world where physical strength and heritage go hand in hand. Not clean, not quiet, but unique and truly an experience.

The final leg takes us through back roads to Glasgow, where we ride through the old town as much as possible. On a motorcycle, quick sightseeing is easy and comprehensive, it's simply the better way to travel. We visit the large, partially covered flea market in Glasgow, grab a good coffee, and saddle up again. A word on security in Scotland: especially in the greater areas of Edinburgh and Glasgow, motorcycle thefts occur repeatedly. We always secured the Tigers with a heavy chain and a disc lock, even during short stops. A recommendation for any motorcycle traveler.

On our return to Edinburgh, a true marvel of engineering awaits us: the famous Falkirk Wheel, which operates based on Archimedes' principle. In each of the two rotating gondolas, a boat floats—regardless of weight, as the displaced water balances the mass. This means: the load remains identical, whether a heavy, light, or no boat at all is in the gondola. This keeps the system balanced, and the gigantic wheel can be operated with just about 1.5 kWh of energy per rotation—about as much as it takes to boil eight kettles of water. Two massive gears and hydraulic motors rotate the wheel quietly and precisely, the rest is pure physics. No counterweights, no tricks—just the pure genius of Archimedes.

The key to a successful trip like this lies in the excellent preparation by Feelgood Reisen. The route planning was thoughtful, balanced, and full of variety—between cultural stops, riding highlights, and relaxing segments. Especially the optional alternative routes and flexible daily options reflect practicality and experience. The hotels were chosen to be motorcycle-friendly, with secure parking for the bikes always ensured, and the local cuisine was diverse. Even in the event of unforeseen circumstances like late arrivals, bad weather, or technical issues, there was a clear contingency plan in place. Anyone who doesn’t want to worry about navigation, accommodation, or reservations, but instead wants to focus fully on riding and experiencing, will find a reliable partner in Feelgood Reisen, whether in Scotland or other regions of the world.