From Barcelona to the Snow-Capped Pyrenees on Multistradas

At the start of the season, when the motorcycle-less winter leaves plenty of time for pondering while simultaneously arousing desires, we pose a philosophical question. Among all the tours Schaaf and I have undertaken, there are countless legendary moments and anecdotes that we often revisit. These always stem from vastly different situations and events that have become immortal. So, what does it take to make a motorcycle tour unforgettable? During our winter escape to Spain in March 2025, we seize the opportunity, pack our gear, and set off on our first major tour of the year to answer this very question. From Barcelona, we're heading up into the Pyrenees, accompanied by two touring motorcycles - the Ducati Multistrada V2 S and the Multistrada V4 S. The conditions? Borderline. The plan? Vague. The route: Roughly 300 kilometers, from sun-drenched asphalt to snow-covered mountain passes just below the 2000-meter mark. Our drive is more than just engine capacity: We want to understand why we do what we do—and what truly makes a motorcycle tour perfect. The route takes us through culturally significant places, along hidden twisty roads, and past historical sites. The Multistradas, equipped with the latest touring technology, are our dependable companions. The result is not a classic test report but an experience that tests both rider and machine.

Those who want to follow the route described in this report can find the Calimoto link here.

It's early morning as we sleepily strap on our helmets and roll north out of Barcelona. The sun is still hiding behind dense clouds, but the excitement is already palpable—not least because our first stop is on historic ground. The "Carretera de la Rabassada", now known as BP-1417, was once one of Spain's most significant hill climb racing tracks. From the 1920s to the early '80s, fierce duels on two and four wheels took place here. Up to 40,000 spectators reportedly lined the steep curves back then—this morning, we share the road only with some commuter traffic and a few cyclists.

However, with the official end of racing in 1983, the allure of the Rabassada by no means disappeared. On the contrary, the local biker scene unofficially transformed it into a raceway. The result was a worrying statistic—by the early 2000s, the BP-1417 was considered the most dangerous road in Catalonia, with an extremely high rate of serious motorcycle accidents. The authorities responded: concrete barriers, speed cameras, new traffic signs, and speed limits now curb the free run of the machines. Yet, anyone riding here can still feel the spirit of the past. And perhaps it's precisely this blend of daring and history, freedom and regulations, that makes it the perfect starting point for our tour.

Barely have we left the historic BP-1417 when we also begin to leave behind the hectic pulse of Barcelona. The road leads us directly into Parc del Garraf—a rugged plateau southwest of the metropolis, which in its quiet expanse feels almost surreal. Where urban traffic, dense concrete, and construction panoramas once dominated, contemplative calm now prevails. Limestone cliffs, Mediterranean vegetation, and winding side roads form a kind of welcome for all who see motorcycling as a decelerating nature experience. And it is here that one of the great strengths of the Ducati Multistradas unfolds: their impressive long-distance comfort. Even on rougher asphalt, the semi-active suspension remains silky smooth, the ergonomics fit perfectly right away—and the electronic windscreen does a solid job against the cool March air. Without haste, but also without boredom, we glide through the highlands—the perfect start to a long day of touring.

But the meditative mood doesn't last long. A quick glance at the GPS raises doubts: the route, at least according to the digital plan, is taking us in the completely wrong direction. A classic case of "Spain logic"—what should lead northeast suddenly heads decisively southwest. The attempt to get back on track through our own initiative ends up as a bona fide gravel stage, somewhere between dilapidated farmhouses and overgrown dirt paths. And it's right here that something special happens: instead of cursing, a feeling arises that we too rarely experience at home—true freedom. No sign prohibits continuing, no fence blocks curiosity. In our German-speaking countries, such a deviation from the norm would often be not just unwelcome but illegal. Here, however, it's a case of: "Just give it a try."

The Multistradas hold their own quite well. While they're not hardcore enduros, with enduro riding modes, a capable suspension, and the versatile ergonomics typical of adventure tourers, they don't feel out of place on loose terrain. So we zip playfully through the Catalonian hinterland, sometimes with well over 100 horsepower and 230 kg. It's a small detour—and yet a big experience. An adventure no one planned but no one would want to miss. Perhaps it's these unplanned excursions that form the essence of unforgettable tours?

As soon as the navigation compass is recalibrated, the next highlight rolls up: Olesa de Bonesvalls. The name might not be widely known outside Catalonia—but anyone who has ever ridden the BV-2411 road that cuts through the town will never forget it. The route is dual-lane, extremely winding, and slices through the hilly landscape west of Barcelona with the elegance of a rally stage. Asphalt quality? Unseen! Because right here, the EU—so the local bikers tell us—tested an experimental asphalt mix. Additionally, the sweeping S-curves are banked, allowing for even higher lean angles and more cornering speed. What remains is pure riding pleasure, making it the perfect playground for anyone who loves curves.

And the two Multistradas? They transform from refined tourers to precise sport machines—a role change they accomplish with remarkable ease, mainly thanks to the adaptive electronic suspension. The V4 S demonstrates how playfully 170 HP can be controlled when electronics, suspension, and ergonomics operate at a level that few tourers achieve. The V2 S, on the other hand, scores with extreme agility and a nimbleness in the twisties that one wouldn't usually expect from a full-sized touring motorcycle.

Here, our biker hearts race faster, and wide grins stretch from ear to ear. Naturally, our curve-hunting escapades don't go without commentary. "You're just here for the speed, aren't you?" comes through the Cardo helmet intercom at first—and shortly after: "What a dream!" The interplay of adrenaline, a bit of trash talk, and genuine enthusiasm drives us forward. Jabs like "You were almost riding too much like a tourer" or "Who's got the 170 HP now?" are part of the experience and serve as an emotional outlet that says so much more between two friends than any dry riding dynamics analysis could. The truth lies somewhere between the joy of power and the thrill of the landscape. And right there, on the BV-2411, the heart of this tour beats especially loud.

After the adrenaline-filled interlude on the BV-2411, we continue northeast. The landscape becomes more rugged, the curves tighter, the vegetation denser. We approach the Sant Llorenç de Munt Natural Park, where the weather gives us a first taste of what's to come. The sun now rarely peeks through the low-lying clouds, and the temperatures noticeably drop. The asphalt is damp in places, the wind whistles colder over the passes, yet nothing stops us from savoring the moment to the fullest. In this setting, one quickly understands: weather is not a sideshow on a motorcycle tour—it's the invisible companion that significantly shapes the experience. Amidst the impressive red sandstone cliffs of the national park, which almost remind one of the landscapes in Utah or Arizona, we stop to adjust our gear for the wet conditions.

Fortunately, we got everything right when it comes to clothing. The combination of the FOX Ranger GORE-TEX ADV Jacket and pants proves to be not only a solid shield against the changing weather but also a well-thought-out touring solution for true adventurers. The jacket, with its waterproof 2-layer GORE-TEX laminate, remains reliably dry without making you feel vacuum-sealed. Ventilation openings provide climate comfort, D3O protection ensures peace of mind, and the modular design with the universal connection to the pants makes the combo extremely flexible. The pants are built on even more robust 3-layer GORE-TEX laminate, complemented by a double Cordura® seat. Even at temperatures just above freezing, we stay warm, dry, and mobile—without feeling like we're wearing a spacesuit.

The Fox Defend ADV Boots also impress with their confidence. Here, hiking boot design meets enduro know-how: the breathable and waterproof GORE-TEX upper keeps feet dry during puddle crossings, while D3O foam in the tongue and ankle areas provides protection. Particularly pleasant is the BOA® adjustment, which allows for quick tuning via a dial and ensures the boot fits snugly on the foot. This gives the boot an impressive balance between use on the motorcycle and experiences off the saddle. The lightweight boot doesn't hang clumsily on the foot but encourages strolling around ruins, monasteries, or viewpoints during stops.

After a few hours in the saddle, you inevitably feel how closely physical exertion, fresh air, and an empty stomach are linked. Thus, our next stop doesn't end at a mountain pass but in front of a small, inconspicuous eatery in a Catalonian village. Motorcycling is not just about acceleration and lean angles. It's also about enjoyment, the conscious arrival at places you would never reach by car. And it's the opportunity to experience regional culture in all its forms.

The selection in this rural region may seem limited at first glance, but the culinary depth is surprising. Croquettes, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, provide the classic Spanish start. This is followed by a hearty Trinxat—a type of potato and cabbage cake rooted in the Pyrenees and served with a bit of bacon. For the main course, there's an excellent paella, almost a mandatory dish in Spain. The crowning finish is the Crema Catalana—caramelized, warm, sweet—Catalonia's traditional dessert.

When you get off the motorcycle, pause, and begin to take in the region with all your senses, it not only fills you up but also leaves you satisfied—and shows that looking beyond the helmet's edge is always worthwhile.

Amidst the thrill of curves and tapas euphoria, there's a moment by the roadside that slows the pace and broadens the horizon: before us lies the impressive ruin of the Monastir de Sant Salvador de la Vedella—a monastery, half submerged in water, half anchored in rock. What initially looks like a photogenic lost place, upon closer inspection, tells a story dating back to the early 9th century. Back then, during the time of the Reconquista, the Franks—as precursors to modern-day France—established the so-called Spanish March in this region: a buffer zone against the Muslim-controlled territories in the south of the Iberian Peninsula.

guidebooks but on journeys like this. Riding a motorcycle, off the highways, you sense history with different senses. You don't just hear about it—you stand right in the midst of it.

The sky hangs heavy over the mountains as we approach the final leg of our journey. The destination: Col de la Creueta, a pass nearly 1,900 meters high, usually known for its stunning panorama. However, what we experience is far from a classic "Scenic View"—instead, a battle against the elements begins, becoming the emotional climax of our tour. The last rays of sun disappear behind thick clouds, the temperature plummets into single digits, and then it starts to snow. At first hesitantly, then in thick, wet flakes that settle on the visor, seat, and asphalt.

The view of the road becomes a test, each curve a gamble. Our Multistradas handle this inhospitable scenery better than their riders. Traction control, cornering ABS, and the finely tuned throttle response in "Urban" mode become lifesavers in this moment. Especially in tight bends with slushy snow and poor visibility, it's the electronics that bring calm and comfort to the ride. None of us would want to miss the heated grips now. On the Multistrada V4 S, the seat heating is even activated. So we gingerly, perhaps a bit ungracefully, make our way up the frozen bends of the pass, but we're actually well-protected and far from freezing to death. Instead, we can fully focus our senses on the extraordinary situation and the adventure ahead.

It's a moment between madness and miracle. One of those sections you'd later say, "Unforgettable, but once is enough." And yet, it's precisely this unexpected twist that turns a tour into a story. The supposedly perfect sunset doesn't materialize, but instead, the Pyrenees route offers us a dramatic final act that captures the intensity of traveling on two wheels. Pain, cold, fatigue, wonder, joy—but also pride. The Multistradas delivered. And so did we.

At the end of the day—and it was a long day—we stand where we intended to be in the morning. But this time, we've arrived not only physically or geographically but also mentally. What truly makes a motorcycle tour unforgettable? It's not just the perfect lean into a curve, the view from the pass, or the meal in the middle of nowhere. It's the sum of contrasts: sun and snow, adrenaline and stillness, comfort and pushing limits. It's the spontaneous decisions, the unplanned detours, the anecdotes that don't appear in any roadbook.

A good tour gives you answers. A great tour asks questions. And that's exactly what happened here. We were challenged—by the weather, by navigation, by ourselves. And that's precisely why this journey will stay in our memory. The technology of the Ducati Multistradas was not just a means of transport but a tool for freedom. Their versatility, their electronic guardian angels, and their playful handling made it possible for us to fully focus on what truly matters: life on the road. Unfiltered, unembellished, yet real.

When you're traveling by motorcycle, you're not just going from A to B—you experience an in-between space where anything can happen. And if, in the end, it wasn't just the destination but the journey itself that changed you—then it was a tour that will stay with you.